Throughout China's long history of brewing and hospitality, one concept has remained central: jiu de, or "drinking virtue." To the ancients, wine was never merely a beverage to be consumed at a banquet. It was a mirror reflecting the heart. How a person drank was seen as a true reflection of their character and upbringing.
The earliest rules of the cup
To understand the roots of drinking virtue, one must look back over three thousand years to the Zhou dynasty. The Shangshu (Book of Documents), one of the oldest foundations of Chinese philosophy, contains a chapter known as the Jiu Gao, or Announcement on Alcohol. Reflecting on the fall of previous rulers who had lost themselves in indulgence, it established the earliest recorded guidelines for responsible drinking:
Drink only at sacrifices... do not drink constantly.
— Book of Documents 1
This early edict laid the groundwork for a drinking culture rooted in moderation. The ancients understood that strong spirits had the power to elevate an occasion or to ruin it, depending entirely on the self-restraint of the drinker. This belief in restraint remains the cultural foundation of why modern hosts often encourage guests to sip slowly and in moderation.
Finding peace in the glass
By the Wei and Jin dynasties (220–420 AD), the definition of drinking virtue began to shift from strict behavioral rules to a philosophy of the mind. The scholar Liu Ling famously wrote his Ode to the Virtue of Wine 2, capturing a new era where drinking was intertwined with literature, philosophy, and authenticity.
In this scholarly tradition, a person with true drinking virtue did not boast of their capacity or become chaotic. Instead, they drank to achieve a calm, unpretentious state of mind. They sought a gentle harmony with nature and their companions, appreciating the moment without losing their centre.
The character behind the spirit
In Chinese culture, we often say that the spirit reflects the person. This applies just as strongly to those who make it. At the Qifu family distillery in Mianzhu, nestled at the foot of the Longmen Mountains, the craftsmen operate by a strict family motto: "Character is higher than the spirit itself."
Brewing strong-aroma baijiu demands an honest and patient disposition. The craftsmen must wait quietly while the grains undergo solid-state fermentation in yellow-mud pits under a red-grain cap for about sixty days. There are no shortcuts. This unwavering dedication to honest craft is vividly expressed in Bainian Qifu · 8. Crafted from five pure grains and aged in traditional clay jars, it offers a smooth entry, a full pit aroma, and a lingering nutty, caramel-like finish.
This depth of flavour is the natural reward of integrity in the brewhouse. Whether we are crafting a spirit or raising a cup with friends, the ultimate measure of quality lies in the character of the people around the table. True drinking virtue is simply the quiet sharing of sincerity, patience, and mutual respect.
