In the traditional Chinese banquet, there is a subtle yet profound phrase that marks a turning point in the evening: jiu guo san xun (酒过三巡), which translates to "when the wine has gone round three times." Before this moment, a dinner is often formal and bound by etiquette. After this moment, the atmosphere softens, polite pleasantries fade, and genuine conversation begins.
The Invisible Clock of the Banquet
A "round" (巡, xun) refers to the pouring and toasting of wine for everyone at the table. In ancient Chinese etiquette, the rhythm of a banquet was carefully structured. The first round is usually initiated by the host to welcome and show respect to the guests. The second round is often a return toast from the guests to thank the host. By the third round, guests begin to toast one another, building camaraderie.
When the wine has gone round three times, and the food has shown its five flavours.
— Traditional Chinese Proverb 1
Once the third round is complete, the invisible formalities of the table begin to dissolve. The initial stiffness gives way to a relaxed posture. Voices may rise in shared laughter or soften into intimate, earnest dialogue. It is at this point that the banquet truly reaches its ideal state, transforming a formal gathering into a genuine meeting of minds.
The Evolution of Flavour
This progression is not only an emotional one, but also a journey of the palate. As the banquet unfolds, the dishes evolve from light appetizers to richer, more complex flavours. Similarly, the baijiu in the cup reveals new layers as it breathes and as the palate adapts to its character.
As a family distillery, we appreciate how time at the table changes the perception of flavour. Take Qifu Laojiao 15 Years, for example. During the first round, its elegant old-pit aroma and clear, smooth character awaken the palate, setting a refined tone for the meal. By the time the wine has gone round three times, the senses are fully engaged. Sipping it slowly at this stage reveals the spirit's balanced harmony—what we call gang rou xiang ji (strength tempered with softness). Its lingering, sweet, and mellow finish intertwines beautifully with the rich cuisine, much like the deepening rapport among the guests.
Time for True Connection
In our fast-paced modern world, meals can sometimes feel rushed, and banquets may occasionally resemble mere networking events. Yet, the ancient wisdom of jiu guo san xun reminds us that forging authentic human connections requires time. It cannot be hurried, nor can it be abbreviated.
A memorable banquet is never about how full the cups are or how quickly they are emptied. The traditional Chinese approach to hospitality has always favoured moderation, patience, and grace. When we wait for the wine to go round three times and the dishes to reveal their five flavours, we allow space for stories to be told and authentic laughter to be shared. The next time you find yourself at a Chinese dinner table, allow the evening to unfold at its own pace, and await the warmth that follows the third round.
